After being closed for a number of months the road to Carti has reopened. In November 2010 massive rain storms washed away part of the brand new road that had just been finished. It took a few months but they've finally finished the repairs and the road to Carti has reopened, hurray!! Things are kind back to normal with regards to going to San Blas. We're back to using the 4x4's but the Kuna Congresso has decided to take control of all road access to San Blas(April 2011). They've said that all private cars will need prior permission to enter the Kuna Yala Comarca. The way we book our transport has remained the same but the Congresso is now dictating which drivers we must use. They're doing this to all hostels, hotels and tour agency. We now call one central control point and they allocate drivers. We're not overly happy about this as we now don't know which drivers we have, the standard of their cars nor their organisational abilities. This means that our trips are not going as smoothly as they once were. But they are still going and thats the important thing!
Ah, the beautiful San Blas islands. the stuff dreams are made of, white sand beaches, palm trees, rustic cabins by the sea, this is where you come to get away from it all. Can you imagine a few days at San Blas? We can, and we can organise tours in the San Blas islands for you. Well, it`s not a tour of San Blas as such, but we`ll explain.......
The San Blas islands, or Kuna Yala, comprise of 365(one for everyday of the year they say) islands located along the Caribbean coats of Panama. Granted semi independence in 1925, the Kuna Yala is run by an elected Congresso. Some 40 islands are inhabited and run by a chief who is a representative to the Congresso. The Kunas have managed to fiercely retain their culture for over 500 years, despite repression by first the colonial Spanish and then Panamanian governments. Life in the islands is still very traditional, many live as their families have done for generations. The Kunas guard their San Blas islands by only allowing Kunas to own property within their areas. Foreign, or Panamanian , owned businesses are not allowed. Only some communities have running water and cooking is still often done over open fires. Most people still sleep in hammocks in communal areas inside their huts. The women still wear brightly coloured clothing, wide skirts and multi-coloured beaded bracelets wrapped the whole length of their lower legs and arms. It`s not uncommon to see Kuna women dressed like this in all parts of Panama.
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Here at Mamallena we bring it all together for you. We don`t organise a tour to San Blas but we bring together the components of the trip. We provide objective information about San Blas and about what accomodation options you have in the islands. You make a decision about where you`d like to stay and we make the booking for you. We then arrange transport to Carti(the only part of San Blas with road access) in a 4x4. The return trip is organised by your accommodation providors. This makes it cheaper for you. We don`t have a profit margin added on top as do many tour providors. We`ve seen people offering some of the exact same tours as we offer for $100 more for a 3 night stay in San Blas. Why pay more than you have to?
Transport leaves to San Blas daily from the hostel at 5am and costs $30 each way in a 4x4. There can be later departures if theres enough demand but it's best to get there early, meet the people from your accommodation and get to the beaches! Contrary to what you may have heard, it's not dangerous, nor is there a problem to drive to San Blas. The road has been paved and it's like driving on a main highway(nearly). Driving time is around 2.5 hours but has been known to take 10 hours (when the weather was bad and the road worse than it is now). There are also Kuna taxes to pay, $6 to enter the area and $2 at the airport(yeah, we know, you`re not flying) where you may get dropped off. It can get confusing at the drop off point, due to local disorganisation. The driver will try and sort out the people you`re staying with but you may have to wait for them to arrive. Don`t worry, they`ll find you!!
You can fly down but you'll need to arrange that in advance. There's not a lot of flights per day and they can fill quickly. You'll need to find out the closest airport to the place you want to stay at and book accordingly. Flights to El Porvenir cost around $70 one way at this stage.
WHERE TO STAY IN SAN BLAS, THE FACT SHEET.
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We don`t claim to know everything about San Blas, but we do have good, reliable contacts in the Carti-El Porvenir-Rio Sidra area. Accomodation prices range from around $20 a day(including food) to $100 a day per person. The thing is, a more expensive place doesn`t always ensure you of a much higher standard. Just remember that not all these places are for everyone, thats why we give you as much information as possible to allow you to make your own decisions.
Eulogio's Place: One of the original homestays on one of the main Carti islands. They've recently built an upstairs part to their house which actually has good airflow. This is the best way to experience Kuna culture, but don't expect to be there alone, it's kinda like a hostel. Conditions are basic and it's as the locals live. Food is basic and toilets are placed over the sea. The price includes all food(NOT gourmet), accommodation and daily tours off to the local beach islands. Each morning you'll be taken to a variety of local islands where you'll spend the day swimming, snorkelling and lazing on the beach. In the afternoon you'll return to Carti for the night.
Eulogio also has access to a variety of local islands where you can also spend the night. One of his islands has become very popular recently. Theres one family living there and currently 3 basic cabins. Hook island has few amenities with a water bucket for washing and a basic toilet, but is very peaceful and cleaner than other islands. Another of his available islands is tiny, it has 1 large palm tree and 2 small palms trees. There's only two cabins here, one occupied by the local family. Don't come ehre looking for a party but it's a perfect getaway for a couple, with lots of books. Staying with Eulogio gives you a variety of options to move around a bit. He charges $25 per person per night in the town and $35 on the beach islands and includes everything except for water. The town has a number of small stores where you can buy snacks, drinks and so on.
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Nixia's Place: Another of the Carti originals, this place is very similar to Eulogios. The concept is the same but here town is a little nicer and she has more open areas around here house for people to spend time. They've also just built a new house thats much more modern and of a higher standard than the normal Kuna house, hence the higher price. Nixia also has a number of beach islands where you can spend the night. Her basic charge is $45 per night per person including everything (food, water, all tours). She charges $45 a night to stay on the beach islands, which include Isla Diablo.
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Kuna Niskua:If you want to interact with the Kunas in their villages but want a higher level of comfort then this is the place. The island has quite a pretty village and the locals are friendly. The hotel has private rooms for $65 single, $50 a double and $45 for a triple(per person). Food and daily tours are included but taxes and water aren`t. You'll sleep in the hotel but each day be taken on a tour to the local beach islands. Expect a bit more luxery such as a private bathroom room, but it`s not the same standard as a similar priced hotel in the city. This is good option for those who don't want the budget backpacker option ie you want some privacy and a bit higher standard of food.
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Cayos Holandeses camping/homestay tour: We've just started our own travel agency and this is our first offering. The Cayos Holandeses are some of the most pristine islands in all of San Blas. Theres no organised accommodation out there so it's practically untouched by the commercial tourism that is hitting the rest of San Blas. In the Holandeses you're practially aqssured of seeing sharks and manta rays, the best snorkeling in San Blas, amazing beaches and maybe even swimming with dolphins. You'll spend 2 nights basic camping in The Cayos Holandeses and afterwards spend a night in Nixia's homestay(see above). In the homestay you'll visit the Kuna museum and watch a traditional Kuna dance. The cost of the tour starts at $260 per person and includes transport from Panama City. Please vist our Panama tour agency, Panama Travel Unlimited for more details
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Franklin's: We`ve recently returned from a couple of nights at Franklins and loved it. It`s a medium sized island split into two parts. Franklins has the larger part and the better beach. There are around 15 cabins spread out through his section, which allows ample space. The grounds are clear and the beach and whole area is raked daily. There are real toilets, but don`t make the mistake of thinking that means a lot! The food was good and plentiful, but we may feel that we because we got two huge lobsters when everyone else got mystery meat!!! It pays to have contacts hehehehehehe The price is $21pp for dorm and $30pp for private per night and includes 3 meals a day but no tours or water. The transport from Carti costs $10 each way.
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Robinson's: One of the original places in San Blas for backpackers. Located on a larger island a couple of hundred metres from Franklins, Robinsons can give you a cambination of both Kuna worlds. Theres the beach, and then theres the town. On this island about 25% is set aside for tourist accomodation and there are 4 different places here(at least 2 of them have the name Robinsons!!). The other 75% is where the Kuna community is. You`ve got the beaches to hangout at and then you can visit the town. The price is $20pp for dorms and $25pp for a private cabin for 2ppl, including 3 meals a day and a tour. Transport to and from Carti is $10pp each way. Water and taxes are not included.
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| Ina's: Ina's boasts shacks with sand floors that are very similar to Robinson's. Some are shared, some are private. $20pp for dorm and $25pp for private. The usual 3 meals a day, 1 tour to the nearby islands [i.e. Isla Estrella] are included, bring your own water and snacks. To go to other islands such ar Isla Pero, you may have to pay a little extra, depending on how many people (about $4.00-6.00 extra) You also have to pay about $10pp each way for the boat to get to and off the island.
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| Isla Iguana: A newer place in San Blas, it boasts 4 private cabins and one dorm with sand floors. The price is $45pp which includes daily tours, three meals a day but no water. The boat to and from the island is $10pp. This is a nice place and Lewis the owner does his best to make your stay enjoyable. This a small island and ideal for couples looking to get some quiet time or groups looking to party the night away. |
Please remember that this isn't a tour as such. It's something we can arrange for you. Each hotel(resort or whatever you want to call them) is responsible for their own levels of service and comfort. We do our best to make sure everything runs smoothly, but you have to be aware that things may not go as you expect.
Prices also change and we do our best to stay up to date but San Blas is constantly changing depending on the whim of the local Kunas.